Vintage Machinery: Union Special 43200G in Action!

At the early stages of the denim production, industrial sewing machines such as those produced by the company "Union Special" were used. These machines were slow and labor intensive to operate, but produced very unique characteristics in the way the denim was produced which cannot be replicated. In the late 1970's, newer equipments which were faster and easy to operate replaced these vintage sewing machines as mass production became the mainstream style of producing denim. But, these newer sewing machines had different structure from the vintage sewing machine, which is why there are some differences in a skew or buckering around the chain stitched part.

The Union Special 43200G is a particular model used for chainstitch construction. These vintage machines are still some of the strongest machines out there and highly sought after worldwide. Because of its unique pushing and pulling style of sewing, it is indispensable. This "push" and "pull" creates directional pressure and is used to sew areas along the waistband, hem, and other parts of the denim. Along the hem, the directional pressure will create a roping affect, and it is this "roping" makes the machine so special.

The above video shows a Union Special 43200G in action. The process of hemming using a Union Special takes time, a careful hand, and a little experience. We offer chainstitch hemming for our customers using the same model Union Special 43200G as shown in this video. For more information on our chainstitch hemming service, pleas click here.

Chainstitch Hemming on the Union Sepcial 43200G

Blue Owl offers chain-stitch hemming services with the use of a Union Special 43200G. Chain-stitching is used for premium jeans. It is a hemming method and chains two threads together to create a more durable and flexible hem with a "roping" effect after being washed or soaked. A Union Special is one of the original machines used to create this chain-stitch hem on denim.

The Union Special 43200G available for chain-stitch hemming for us is the second generation of the model from the 1950s with a few modifications. This machine has a Servo Motor electric control panel and an air compressor unit updating it to the 21st century. As the machine pulls the fabric adding directional pressure to the hem, the Servo Motor and air compressor allows the speed to go up or down and the needle to create an evenly controlled chain stitch and the desired "roping" effect.

We offer free chain-stitch hemming services for all denim purchased at Blue Owl at regular price within 14 days of time of purchase (plus any associated shipping fees). This applies to both in-store or online purchases. For denim purchased elsewhere, we offer chain-stitch services at $25 per a pair of denim (plus any associated shipping fees). Turn around time is 3-5 days.

On all dry denim (unsanforized or unwashed raw), this service will include a one wash/soak in order to shrink the denim to tagged size. When possible, we use the same thread used by the manufacture and match the color to the original hem. If you are interested in our chain-stitch hemming services or have questions, please e-mail us at sales@blueowl.us.